Finished with Hygge - 1 - The inner city
Nyhavn and the Harbour.
The King's Garden and Rosenborg.
Squares, passages and lanes.
Introduction
Copenhagen's inner city is constrained by the line of the old fortifications. Even within this area the 1658 map splits the city into "Old Copenhagen" and "New Copenhagen", with the line of Gothersgade marking the divide. A quick look at a modern map will show a higgledy-piggledy street layout in the "Old" and a well ordered grid layout in the "New".
This walking tour will take in the best of "Old Copenhagen" and a strip of "New Copenhagen" from the harbour to The King's Garden and Rosenborg. It will take in the best of the sights, as well as hidden squares and passages, and the most historic streets and lanes. Churches, colourful timber-framed buildings and more shops, cafe's and restaurants than you can shake a stick at.
The remainder of "New Copenhagen" including the Marble Church, Amalienborg and the Castle will be covered in another chapter.
Note: The map (above) and photographs can be enlarged by clicking on them (opens in a new browser tab). On the map north is 30° clockwise, i.e. at 01:00 on an old school analogue clock.
tart:
There are two Metro stations on this tour "Gammel Strand" on the M3 and M4 lines and "Kongens Nytorv" on all four metro lines. Either one could be used as a startpoint and obviously the tour can be done clockwise or anti-clockwise. On the whole I think anti-clockwise is better and Gammel Strand is in the heart of "Old Copenhagen". We will start at Gammel Strand Station (Metro M3 or M4 line) (GPS 55.67776 12.57935).
Højbro Plads:
Coming out of the Metro station you are immediately in the middle of a
dramatic city panorama. A fine row of buildings line Gammel Strand looking
out over the Slotsholm canal. Across the canal the Christiansborg Chapel and
Thorvaldsens Museum display a classical form. Behind the mass of
Christiansborg Palace with its copper-clad tower looms large. Left again is seen
the spiral spire of the Stock Exchange. Then more elegant facades lining
the canal and Højbro Place, with the statue of
Bishop Absalon astride his horse looking out over his dominion.
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Turn your back on Christiansborg (for now, we will be returning that way),
and turn left past the Bishop's statue onto Højbro
Place. This tree-lined boulevard soon opens out onto Amagertorv, the heart
of Copenhagens shopping experience. The Stork Fountain sits in the midst
of the tessellated tile pavement
(GPS 55.67885 12.57958).
This is the junction of the major shopping streets
Strøget and Købmagergade,
hence the crowds. For now we will skip the shopping and concentrate on the
sights, so take the small side street (Store Kirkestræde)
to the right of the art-deco building that was once the home of Cafe Norden.
This quickly leads to Nikolaj Place and the Nikolaj Church which now serves as a contemporary art gallery. The building is better appreciated from the south side of the square. Continue along Lille Kongensgade to the junction with the main road Bremerholm (GPS 55.67929 12.58269).
Across the junction is a tree-lined outdoor cafe. Turn left past this cafe and then immediately right onto Strøget. After just 30m look for an arched entrance on the left with a sign above pointing to Pistolstræde (GPS 55.67989 12.58309).
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The inner city is full of little yards and alleyways and
Pistolstræde is a fine example. Duck through the arch
and continue ahead until you reach a courtyard with a striking collection of
timber-framed buildings. Take the alleyway on the right to emerge onto
Ny Østergade
(GPS 55.68085 12.58306).
Turn left and at the junction with Grønnegade is another fine timber-framed building. Turn right down Grønnegade and take the first street on the right (Ny Adelgade) (GPS 55.68142 12.58328). As is true of much of the inner city take time to look up and look in (the shops), to see the different styles and ages of the buildings and what they now contain. Also where take note of entrances that lead to inner courtyards.
Kongens Nytorv:
3
The east end of Ny Adelgade suddenly bursts out into Kongens Nytorv
(GPS 55.68100 12.58485).
At the centre of the square is the elliptical garden (Krinsen) surrounding
the statue of Christian V whose decision it was to lay out the square.
Several notable buildings surround the square, including the Royal
Danish Theatre, the Charlottenburg Palace, the Magasin du Nord department
store and the upmarket Hotel D'Angleterre.
Our route will leave Kongens Nytorv to the east (left) of the domed Royal Theatre down August Bournonvilles Passage. There are pedestrian crossings to the left or right if you wish to visit the garden in the centre. Otherwise turn right from Ny Adelgade and pass in front of the Hotel D'Angleterre. The next block contains the entrance to the Metro (Kongens Nytorv station serves all 4 metro lines) (GPS 55.68008 12.58502).
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Just after the metro station cross the main road between the Magasin du Nord
department store and the Royal Theatre, and pass in front of the theatre,
then turn right down August Bournonvilles Passage
(GPS 55.67989 12.58645).
Ahead of you is the Art Deco curiosity that is the
Stærrekassen (Starling Nest Box).
This was used as an additional theatre space until the new
Playhouse was opened on the harbourfront (which we will pass later). Pass
through the tunnel and admire the mosaic ceiling with figures from the arts
and science.
On exiting the passageway (GPS 55.67906 12.58694), turn left onto Heibergsgade and continue until you emerge onto Nyhavn (GPS 55.68004 12.58895).
Nyhavn:
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Nyhavn (New harbour) today is a lively, cosmopolitan, touristy, gash of
a waterway, surrounded by colourful townhouses, but it wasn't always thus.
Of course it was built as a harbour in the 17th century as a gateway into
the inner city, but as ships got larger it slowly fell out of use. Between
1960 and 1980 the area was improved by creating a verteran ship collection
and pedestrianising the north side. Many bars and restaurants now occupy
this spot and zillions of images of Nyhavn fill the internet.
Turn left and continue to the end of the harbour, where the canal tour boats dock, and where the Memorial Anchor commemorates the sacrifices of World War II (GPS 55.68060 12.58772). Cross to the other side of the harbour and walk along the waterfront, past all the bars and restaurants. Continue all the way to where the main harbour opens out at the harbour bus stop, with fine views across to Christianshavn (GPS 55.67913 12.59395).
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Here there is a harbour bus stop, and to the left the modern Royal Theatre
Playhouse. Take the wooden walkway that leads out in front of the Theatre
for the fine views north past the modern Opera house to the open sea.
Continue around the theatre to a large open area, Ofelia Plads,
(GPS 55.68067 12.59502).
This is used as a cultural venue for concerts, exhibitions and so on.
Sankt Annæ Plads:
Our route now heads north-east along the tree-lined boulevard of Sankt Annæ Plads. This is lined with elegant 18th and 19th century buildings. The Garrison Church (Garnisonskirken) is passed on the left. This Baroque church was originally intended for military personnel stationed in the City.
Where Sankt Annæ Plads meets Bredgade is a statue of Christian X astride a horse. During the danish occupation of World War II the King would ride daily through the streets of Copenhagen as a display of Danish sovereignty.
7
From the statue cross Bredgade to the far side and turn left. Just 20m along
Bredgade is an passage way with an elaborate arched sign
Sgt. Annæ Passage
(GPS 55.68208 12.58839).
Take this passageway that winds between early 20th century
buildings. It emerges onto Store Kongensgade opposite the tree-lined
street of Landgreven
(GPS 55.68289 12.58650).
The King's Garden:
Cross Store Kongensgade and walk up Landgreven to the junction with Borgergade (GPS 55.68332 12.58493). Turn right and at the crossroads with Dronningens Tværgade turn left (GPS 55.68408 12.58544).
Dronningens Tværgade used to connect the Queen's and King's gardens, but the Queen's garden was swallowed up by later 18th century developments. The street now passes through the Dronningegården estate. This is the modernist red brick residential complex. The inner space, with its geometric trees, is somewhat spoilt by its use as a car park.
8
Continue along Dronningens Tværgade to where it
joins Kronprinsessegade. On the opposite side are the petite gatehouses
guarding the entrance to the King's garden. Go through the gates and into
the park.
It would not be a surprise to know that the King's Garden was established as the private grounds of King Christian IV's Rosenborg Castle. The public were given access in the 18th century, and it has been exceedingly popular ever since. If you have time this is a great place to rest your feet, or to explore the gardens. We, however, are on a mission and will only skip through the gardens.
Head towards the Castle and after 50m, at the first avenue of lime trees turn left down this avenue (Damegangen) (GPS 55.68523 12.58110). Continue with elegance all the way to the gated entrance to the park on Gothersgade (GPS 55.68337 12.57851).
The Round Tower:
Cross Gothersgade and go straight ahead onto Landemærket. Ahead the tops of the Round Tower and Cathedral attract; we will return to those later, but first a short diversion. Take the first right onto Abenrå, and first left into Hauser Plads (GPS 55.68308 12.57592).
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A playground fills most of Hauser Plads, so continue past the less than
attractive concrete office block, to the neighbouring square Kultorvet.
This is a lively square lined with cafe's and shops. On the south side of
the square is the pedestrianised shopping street of
Købmagergade
(GPS 55.68225 12.57449).
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Head down Købmagergade and you will soon be greeted
with the spectacle of the Round Tower and Trinitatis Church. The Round Tower
was built as an astronomical observatory in the 18th century and
access to the roof is by a spiral ramp, rather than stairs, which enabled
horses to be used to move books to the library and astronomical instruments
to the observatory.
Stay on Købmagergade for a further 50m to where Skindergade joins on the right (GPS 55.68106 12.57643). Proceed down Skindergade to the first turning on the left (Niels Hemmingsens Gade) (GPS 55.68048 12.57561). Then 50m down Niels Hemmingsens Gade the square of Gråbrødretorv (Greyfriars) opens up.
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Gråbrødretorv is perhaps one of the nicest squares
in Copenhagen, although it has had a chequered history. The fire of 1728
and the bombardment of 1807 resulted in significant rebuilding.
The prominent sculpture is a water feature by
Søren Georg Jensen
(GPS 55.67978 12.57583).
Vor Frue Kirke:
Cross Gråbrødretorv and leave it bu its south-west corner (Gråbrødrestræde - there's a mouthful of danish vowels to chew over), and turn right on Klosterstræde. This leads back onto Skindergade. A further 60m leads to where Fiolstræde opens up on the right (opposite Jorcks Passage) (GPS 55.67912 12.57393).
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Fiolstræde quickly leads to the circular apse
of Copenhagens cathedral (Vor Frue Kirke). There has been a church on this
site for 800 years, but the present neo-classical iteration was instigated
after the 1807 bombardment. To the north of the cathedral lies the main
buildings of the University of Copenhagen, and the area inbetween is
Frue Plads. Frue Plads is lined with busts of important people, but a more
interesting monument is on the corner with Fiolstræde
which celebrates the seismologist Inge Lehmann who discovered that the
Earth had a solid and not a liquid core
(GPS 55.67993 12.57327).
Stroll along Frue Plads to where it meets Nørregade (GPS 55.67950 12.57184). Turn left in front of the porticoed entrance of Vor Frue Kirke. Opposite is a small square (Bispetorvet) containing the Reformation Memorial which commemorates the conversion of Denmark from a Catholic to a Lutherian faith in 1536-37.
13
Continue south on Nørregade and you soon come to
Gammeltorv (Old Market). This is the oldest square in Copenhagen, although
that maybe not apparent from the newish buildings framing it.
Gammeltorv is now part of the Srøget pedestrian zone.
The southern segment of this open space is called Nytorv with the
Neoclassical facade of the Copenhagen Court House.
Proceed to the south-east corner of Nytorv and turn left onto Brolæggestræde (GPS 55.67726 12.57380). Take the first right onto Knabrostræde (GPS 55.67763 12.57469), and go straight across the crossroads with Kompagnistræde.
14
Ahead can be seen the outbuildings of Christiansborg across the
Slotsholm Canal, but before we get there (turn next right) we will divert down
Magstræde
(GPS 55.67672 12.57611),
This is a seriously old street with
buildings surviving from the 17th century.
Christiansborg:
At the west end of Magstræde turn left onto Frederiksholms Kanal (GPS 55.67616 12.57482), Go straight across the junction with Stormgade with the Canal on your left and the National Museum on your right. At the next junction turn left to cross the Canal on Marmor Bridge (GPS 55.67480 12.57649).
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This is on the main axis of the Christiansborg palace, and its tower looms
ahead. Cross the bridge and go through the entrance to the palace grounds.
The curved stable wings stretch either side to encompass the riding track.
These survive from the original baroque 18th century palace.
Turn to the right and follow the arches to the corner of the south wing of Christiansborg Palace, passing the Royal Stables and the Theatre Museum. Take the white archway in the corner that leads to steps down to the inner courtyard (Rigsdagsgården). This is a very special spot as the steps up on the left mark the main entrance to the Danish Parliament (Borgen) (GPS 55.67541 12.58065).
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To the right is an entrance that leads to the sheltered gardens of the
Royal Library. Pedestrian passages in the white linking building ahead
lead out onto the Christiansborg Palace Square, with Holmens Church
straight ahead across the canal
(GPS 55.67581 12.58157).
Turn left along the front of Christansborg Palace to the corner where the
white neo-classical Palace Chapel sits.
Cross the road and go over the canal bridge
(Højbro) to find us back at our starting point
at Gammel Strand metro station.
(GPS 55.67776 12.57935).
Notes on the 1807 bombardment of Copenhagen:
The last major act of destruction suffered by Copenhagen was during the bombardment of 1807. The British Navy wanted to seize the Danish fleet in case it was turned against them in the Napoleonic war, and to protect their access to the Baltic Sea. When the neutral Danes refused to hand over their navy the British bombarded Copenhagen, causing fires which destroyed many buildings and killed many civilians.
