Finished with Hygge - 6 - Nørrebro

Introduction

The Nørrebro district of Copenhagen lies outside the shield of the old City fortifications. The name refers to the northern "borough" across the Lake defences.

This district exploded as a residential area after 1852 when the City of Copenhagen abandoned its defensive demarkation line that limited the extent of the City. Today Nørrebro is multicultural, lively and edgy.

The following tour gives a good introduction to this borough with all its rich diversity.

Note: The map (above) and photographs can be enlarged by clicking on them (opens in a new browser tab). On the map north is 30° anti-clockwise, i.e. at 11:00 on an old school analogue clock.

tart:

So begin at Nørrebro Metro Station (Metro M3 line) (GPS 55.70052 12.53808).

Mimers Square:

The Metro exit emerges right next to the elevated S-train (F line) station. Walk past the train station entrance to the busy junction of Nørrebrogade. Cross over Nørrebrogade and continue a little further to where Mimersgade turns to the right in front of the supermarket (GPS 55.70114 12.53871). Mimers Square is the small pedestrian area here with little of interest to hold our attention.

Follow Mimersgade to the right and cross the junction with Borgmestervangen at the traffic lights. Stay on Mimersgade and after one block the scene opens out at Den Sorte Plads (The Black Square) (GPS 55.70081 12.54207).

1 The Black Square is part of the larger Superkilen Park that a century ago was the line of a railway line and is now marked by the line of the Green Way (Grønne Sti) cycle path. The park was conceived as a means to connect two divided residential areas and to promote tolerance and unity. The design process was driven by public participation and objects in the park represent all the nationalities of the residents. The Black Square contains play areas, games tables, a fountain and the unmistakeable white lines flowing around obstacles like the water in a river.

Having explored the Black Square continue down Mimersgade to the next junction with Hamletsgade (GPS 55.70062 12.54350). Turn left here onto Hamletsgade.

Bananna Park:

Hamletsgade is lined with post-war apartment blocks in a variety of styles. After 100m turn right onto Nannasgade (GPS 55.70136 12.54497). Shortly you come to Kingos Church with its fine tower in red brick topped in copper. Continue down Nannasgade, across 3 crossroads, with apartment blocks all around and the promise of some trees ahead. The trees mark the entrance to Bananna Park (GPS 55.69960 12.54929).

2 A gaily painted arch across the entrance to the park is in reality an outdoor climbing wall run by Nørrebro climbing club. The name Bananna Park is a play on words, being located on Nannasgade and having a large yellow banana-shaped mound on the north side of the park. Beyond the climbing arch the park iteself is fairly regular but it does have a fine wall of street art on its south side.

When you are done exploring the park continue down Nannasgade to the T-junction with Rådmandsgade (GPS 55.69927 12.54978). Turn right and then first left at the junction with Mimersgade (GPS 55.69886 12.54914). Make your way down Mimersgade to the major junction with Jagtvej (GPS 55.69765 12.55261). Go straight over this junction into Arresøgade. A recreation area appears ahead filling Guldbergs Square. Continue alongside the enclosed sports pitch to rejoin Arresøgade on the far side (GPS 55.69712 12.55477).

Continue down Arresøgade and cross Refsnæsgade. A further 50m brings you to the juncion with Nøddebogade on your right (GPS 55.69730 12.55685). Turn right down Nøddebogade and after crossing Fensmarkgade you come to the T-junction with Sjællandsgade (GPS 55.69607 12.55805).

3 Ahead is the Forfatterhus, a red-clad nusery school designed as a "village for children." Cross Sjællandsgade and zig-zag left then right around the Forfatterhus to join Edith Rodes Vej (GPS 55.69625 12.55864).

City of the Ancients:

The rather grand sounding "City of the Ancients" is an extensive site filled with homes for the elderly, care centres and associated facilities, set amongst plentiful green spaces. Built at the turn of the 20th century it gives room to stretch a bit in this otherwise densely packed borough Head south down Edith Rodes Vej and you will come upon the City of the Ancients Church.

4 This eight-sided church is built in a baroque style with a dome and lantern. Continue along Edith Rodes Vej for another 100m and take the turn on the right (Agnes Henningsens Vej) (GPS 55.69389 12.55837). Turn immediately left (Agnes Henningsens Vej) (GPS 55.69391 12.55782). to pass in front of the "Castle" (Slottet) a three-sided building in the style of a Manor House.

Continue in the same direction past the end of the building and follow the path through the urban park (ByOasen) to its southern tip, between some low buildings, and emerge at the crossroads of Guldbergsgade and Møllegade (GPS 55.69187 12.55751).

Ahead, across the crossroads, is the walled enclosure of the Moses Cemetery. It is no longer an active cemetery but can be visited during its opening hours. Turn left down Guldbergsgade keeping the wall of the cemetery on your right. Guldbergsgade ends where Sankt Hans Torv (Saint John's Place) opens up on the left (GPS 55.69045 12.56082).

5 The large granite sculpture "The House That Rains" by Jørgen Sørensen dominates the square. The square is also known for its cafe culture, so stop a while if that is your thing. Across the square is the Police Museum and to the north-east the copper-green spire of St. John's Church. This was the first church to be built outside the Copenhagen defences to accommodate the needs of the growing population in the suburbs.

To the right, down Fælledvej, stand the twin towers of the catholic church "Sakramentskirken." To the left the wide avenue of Blegdamsvej leads to Østerbro past the Kingdom Hospital made famous by Lars von Triers TV series "Riget."

The Lakes:

Cross the road and head east down Blegdamsvej. When level with the church turn right down Læssøesgade (GPS 55.69163 12.56282). Ahead there is the promise of something boundless; embrace it.

6 At the end of Læssøesgade Sortedams Lake bursts into view, almost like a sea after the confines of the city (GPS 55.68995 12.56611). The lakes, running in a line were used both as defensive fortifications and reservoirs for the city. Today they are very popular destinations for recreation with walkers and runners using the gravel tracks along their banks. The small island in front of you, Fish Island (Fiskeøen) is usually overrun with birds.

The dome of the Marble Church (Marmokirken) peeks up over the roof tops on the far side of the lake. Turn right and stroll along the lakeside to where Dronning Louises bridge crosses the lake. Take the shared cycle and pedestrian subway to the other side of this busy road. A short distance on the other side brings one to a floating cafe. Take the road on the right opposite this (Baggesensgade) (GPS 55.68640 12.56165).

Blågårds Square:

Head down Baggesensgade for 200m, passing the Church of Christ, to the crossroads with Blågårdsgade (GPS 55.68719 12.55911). Blågårdsgade is a pedestrian street with outside seating for its cafes and restaurants. It also contains some fashion and interior design shops. Turn left and within 100m you will come upon Blågårds Square on the right (GPS 55.68632 12.55809).

7 This square is a popular venue for events and activities especially in the summer time. Walk through the square taking note of the church on the north side of the square and the granite sculptures by Kai Nielsen that surround the central court. These sculptures depict trades people all in the company of children. Note: the church was decommissioned in 2014 and converted to a community centre.

Cross Blågårds Square to the western corner, where an underpass beneath the building, to the right of the library, leads out to a small square and the road of Korsgade (GPS 55.68603 12.55574). Acrss Korsgade is a sports hall (Korsgadehallen) with a green roof which you are allowed to scramble over if you so desire.

Assistens Cemetery:

Look to the right down Korsgade and you will see the prominent spire of the Holy Cross Church (Hellig Kors Kirke). This is our next waypoint so head straight down Korsgade, crossing some minor roads until you reach the semi-circular space in front of the church on Kapelvej (GPS 55.68736 12.55229).

Holy Cross Church was inaugurated in 1890 and is built in red brick in the National Romantic style. The interior is notable for its stained and painted wood panelling.

Turn right and walk for 150m along Kapelvej, past a wooded play area, to the red-brick, gated entrance of Assistens Cemetery on the left (GPS 55.68882 12.55300).

8 The view from the entrance reveals the dramatic avenue of poplar trees bisecting the cemetery from south-east to north-west. The tour will leave Assistens Cemetery from the north-west end of this avenue on Jagtvej, but it is definitely worth your while exploring the grounds at your own leisure. It is quite a relaxed atmosphere, more like a park than a burial ground, with people bringing picnics and generally taking it easy.

Some famous danes are buried in this cemetery, Andersen, Bohr, Kierkegaard, although there are plenty of other lesser known monuments that are perhaps more memorable. One to make you smile is the "Det var det" sculpture on the Leif Sylvester Petersen family plot, just across the avenue from Neils Bohr.

When you are finished exploring the cemetery leave it by the gate at the north-west end of the avenue of poplar trees (GPS 55.69154 12.54566). After the quiet of the cemetery the noise of Jagtvej is a jolt to the system. Don't worry we won't linger long. Cross Jagtvej at the pedestiran crossing and take the attractive street straight ahead, Jægersborggade.

Nørrebro Park:

Jægersborggade might look like a residential street but don't be fooled, it is now one of the top trendy places to be seen in Copenhagen. It contains art galleries, designer boutiques, organic shops, wine bars and restaurants to name just a few. If none of that interests you continue to the end of Jægersborggade where it meets Stefansgade (GPS 55.69390 12.54227). Cross Stefansgade and turn left then immediately right to take a footpath heading north through the trees, with a playground on the right.

9 This is Nørrebro Park, a extended green space that follows the route of an old railway track. It is part of the "Green Way" (Den Grønne Sti), a cycle track that cuts through Frederiksberg and Nørrebro. A complete tour of The Green Way is covered in the cycling chapter of the same name.

The park contains all sorts of opportunities for sport and recreation. The park ends where it meets Hillerødgade (GPS 55.69734 12.54147). Cross Hillerødgade and continue along The Green Way passing under the large open roof. Soon you come to the junction with Nørrebrogade (GPS 55.69903 12.54173).

10 Nørrebrogade is the beating heart of Nørrebro with shops, restaurants and all the rest reflecting its multicultural roots. On the other side of the road is The Red Square, part of the Superkilen park, which links to The Black Square which was passed at the beginning of this tour.

The end of the tour is nigh. Turn left along Nørrebrogade and continue over a crossroad junction to where the railway bridge crosses the road at Folmer Bendtsens Plads (GPS 55.70083 12.53831).

Turn left and you are back at your starting point at Nørrebro Metro Station (GPS 55.70052 12.53808).

Notes on Andersen and Kierkegaard:

The author Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875) and the philosopher Søren Kierkegaard (1813-1855) are both buried in Assistens Cemetery. They lived through Denmarks "golden age" and knew each other through common acquaintances in Copenhagen. Theirs was a mysterious relationship. For example Kierkegaard decided to write a review of Andersen's third book, that turned out to be 90 pages of less than complementary recommendations. Despite this they came to appreciate each others opinion with dedications to each other in later books.