Finished with Hygge - 7 - Østerbro and Nordhavn

Introduction

The Østerbro district of Copenhagen lies outside the shield of the old City fortifications. The name refers to the eastern "borough" beyond the Lake defences.

This district exploded as a residential area after 1852 when the City of Copenhagen abandoned its defensive demarkation line that limited the extent of the City. Today Østerbro is trendy, lively and expensive.

Nordhavn (North Harbour) is one of the newest development areas in Copenhagen and also one of the most expensive. The waterfront is an immensely popular hang-out at any time of year.

The following tour gives a good introduction to these boroughs with all their rich diversity.

Note: The map (above) and photographs can be enlarged by clicking on them (opens in a new browser tab). On the map north is 30° anti-clockwise, i.e. at 11:00 on an old school analogue clock.

Start:

So begin at Trianglen Metro Station (Metro M3 line) (GPS 55.69916 12.57613).

Fælledparken:

The Metro exit emerges at the junction of Øster Allé and Blegdamsvej. Across an open square the Ionic facade of the Royal Post and Telegraf building is striking. To its left, at the entrance to Fælled Park, a statue commenmorates the 1920 re-unification of Southern Jutland with Denmark following a referendum.

We will wander down Blegdamsvej before entering Fælled Park. The street gets its name from the bleaching (bleg) ponds (dam) that were first alloted in the 1660's in the area from the park down to Sortedams Lake. From the Metro station head south-west down the broad sweep of Blegdamsvej keeping the open area on your right.

After a white office building comes the stepped terraces of the Danish Red Cross headquarters. The next building is the imposing frontage of the Danish Freemasons Hall with its grandiose entrance.

1 The next set of buildings are a little less striking, but are famous the world world over especially amongst physicists. The Niels Bohr Institute was inaugurated in 1921, by that self-same Danish giant of science. In quantum physics the "Copenhagen Interpretation" reflects the ground-breaking work done here. Niels Bohr invited all the greats of physics, including Einstein, to Copenhagen in a spirit of collaboration. The original building has the name above the door, a plinth of rock out front, and an array of lights that illuminate when the CERN collider in Switzerland is operating.

Immediately after the Niels Bohr Institute is a small gravel square bordered with trees (GPS 55.69634 12.57069). On the right is the entrance to Fælled Park. The concrete bulk of the Rigs (Kingdom) Hospital can be seen across Frederik V's Vej.

Take the entrance into Fælled Park through the trees. This park is a designated public park (Commons) and the Workers' Day Festival is held here on the 1st May. Where the path emerges from the trees, at a crossroads of gravel paths, take the left-hand path (GPS 55.69744 12.57072). A playground on the left is modelled on famous Copenhagen buildings, including the lost spiral tower of the Stock Exchange.

The path weaves between the trees on the edge of the park until another crossroads is reached (GPS 55.69902 12.56639). Continue straight over the crossroads.

2 After 100m a grassy area opens up on the right. Across the grass in front of the copse of trees is the Talerstol (Speaker's Chair). This is carved from a large granite boulder dug up when the park was laid out. The Talerstol is used during the 1 May celebrations for public speeches.

Stay on this path as it curves round to the right, passing a red-roofed toilet block. Where it opens out at another crossroads (GPS 55.70113 12.56600), a water channel (part of the lake) appears on the left and to the right is the Pavilion Café. Across the grass the bulk of the Parken Stadium stands out.

Continuing along the path straight ahead the lake opens up on the left with benches dotted along the waterside. At a fork in the path, where the trees build up again (GPS 55.70275 12.56708), take the right hand branch. Stay on this main path that borders the grass as it curves round to the right. Where the path passes between two prominent birch trees continue straight through the bushes to emerge onto Øster Allé opposite the corner of the Parken football stadium (GPS 55.70256 12.56988).

3 The Parken football stadium is home to F.C. Copenhagen and the Danish National football team. It also regularly stages concerts from the world's biggest stars.

Østerbrogade:

Cross Øster Allé at the pedestrian crossing and to the left of the Parken stadium take a combined foot and cycle path that disappears into some trees to the right of a café kiosk (GPS 55.70298 12.57022).

The path curves round to the right passing a training area (GPS 55.70441 12.57144). Stay on this path to where it emerges onto a car park (GPS 55.70482 12.57303). Continue straight ahead passing the red-brick Idrætshuset (Sport's Hall) and the neo-classical Svømmehallen (Swimming Baths), where the road bends to the right.

4 The Swimming Baths date from 1930 and the interior retains much of the neo-classical style. To the left is a pedestrian area, Gunner Nu Hansens Plads, with a café at its heart. At the far end of the Swimming Baths the broad sweep of Østerbrogade is reached at a crossroads (GPS 55.70450 12.57744).

Cross Østerbrogade at the crossing and head straight down Nøjsomhedsvej to its end, noting the different styles of apartment blocks. At the end of Nøjsomhedsvej (GPS 55.70484 12.58093), look to the left and you will see a small tree-filled, triangular shaped square with "au plain air" tables and chairs belonging to the cafés that line the far side.

5 This is Bopa Plads, named in commemoration of the Danish resistance group from the second world war that was allegedly based in the café. Walk across Bopa Plads on its right side, passing the cafés and continue in the same line along Løgstørgade until you reach the junction with Århusgade (GPS 55.70633 12.58221), Turn right and proceed along Århusgade.

As you stroll dowm Århusgade remember that Østerbro is one of the most popular, and expensive, residential districts in Copenhagen. Perhaps the most interesting building along this stretch is the Hans Just building at number 88. It dates from 1917 and was originally a warehouse, but is now converted to multi-use offices.

You shortly arrive at large junction with a tree-filled boulevard (Strandboulevarden) which encircles the inner Østerbro district (GPS 55.70675 12.58615), Go straight across the junction to continue along Århusgade. Halfway along this section, on the left, is Østerbrohuset, a council run culture and sports hall. On the right you can see the bold design of the Charlotte Tower.

6 Straight ahead is a railway bridge (GPS 55.70722 12.59019), Go through the tunnel and emerge onto a wide road Kælkbrænderihavnsgade, with one entrance to the Nordhavn Metro station on your right. Cross this busy road at the pedestrian crossing and continue in the same easterly direction as before, which is a continuation of Århusgade.

Nordhavn:

The character completely changes now. You are entering the Nordhavn district, a modern development based around the old harbour industries. Just twenty years ago this would have been unrecognisable, although a few of the older buildings have been re-purposed, notably Audo House which was previously a merchant house where small shops traded with goods from around the world, for example tea, cocoa, coffee and spices.

7 After a modern brick building the next section of Århusgade is made up of the original harbour buildings in red brick or red render, culminating in the Audo building with its distinctive bell-shaped feature above the main entrance. This was once a merchant house when Nordhavn was a freeport. It looks older than its 1918 construction date.

Continue along Århusgade, between modern apartment blocks to where the road bends to the left (GPS 55.70784 12.59660), Utilizing the paved pedestrian area continue keeping the white apartment block (Frihavnstårnet) on your left. Ahead is a red-clad multi-storey carpark with a supermarket on the ground floor.

8 Head for the nearest (south-west) corner of this carpark (GPS 55.70759 12.59756), This carpark (P-hus Lüders) has an exercise park on its roof, with great views over the harbour. There is a set of stairs on the south side of the building, just round to the right, or an internal set of stairs which serves the carpark starting at the same corner. A gateway on either set of stairs is unlocked during the exercise park's opening hours. Go up to the roof and if the ascent was enough exercise take a rest and enjoy the views. Alternatively if you want to skip the rooftop views walk round two sides of this car park to the north-east corner to rejoin the walk at the bridge by the harbourside.

The views from the roof-top terrace are extensive. To the north, across the water of the Orient basin, some large cranes still operate to load containers from Levant Quay, with Ocean Quay beyond where the largest cruise ships dock. To the west is the prominent white, circular building the Tip of Nordø. Beyond is the defensive fort of Trekroner with Refshaleøen to the right. To the south, near at hand, is the white star-shaped building of the UN City containing 10 United Nation agencies. Beyond that the towers of Copenhagen city centre can be picked out. Close by, to the south-west, are the twin circles of the Portland Towers, and to the right, over the railway, the district of Østerbro where we began the walk, with Charlottetårnet prominent.

When you have finished enjoying the sights take the external stairs, on the north side, or the internal stairs on the north-east corner, down to the corner of Helsinkigade and Murmanskgade (GPS 55.70780 12.59881), Take the bridge over the water channel (Gdanskgade) heading for the open sea. Continue along Gdanskgade as far as you can go. The circular, white, office building is called the Tip of Nordø (GPS 55.70717 12.60227), The ground floor is open to the public and has a large circular atrium reaching up to the sky.

9 Continuing to the actual tip of Nordø, i.e. the furthest reach of the island there is a fine view out to sea (GPS 55.70632 12.60244), Near at hand is the Trekroner Fort, an artificial island and military fortress built from 1787 onwards to protect the harbour. It is now open to the public and it can be accessed by boat, your own or as part of a boat tour. Beyond Trekroner Fort is the Øresund separating Denmark and Sweden. To the right is Refshaleøen with its distinctive shipbuilding sheds and modern waste-to-energy plant "Amager Bakke". Right again is the harbour and the Langelinie quayside where cruise ships tie up.

Continue around the tip of Nordø and walk along the southern quayside with fine views into the Nordhavn Bassin. Cross the bridge back onto the "mainland", turn left and right onto another quayside (Sandkaj) (GPS 55.70675 12.59880), A short way along Sandkaj, by the swimming basin, the quay opens up (Göteborg Plads) to reveal the conjoined Portland Towers. The concrete cores of these office buildings were originally storage silos. In summer the wooden platforms of the quayside are awash with bodies of the locals soaking up the sun, and the ice-cream parlours are decorated with long queues.

The tour continues along the quayside to the end of the harbour basin, where we meet again the busy and tricky to pronounce Kalkbrænderihavnsgade (GPS 55.70604 12.59175), Turn left and walk beside the busy road to the next road junction with Marmorvej (GPS 55.70345 12.59247), Do not cross Marmorvej but turn to the right and cross the dual carriageway of Kalkbrænderihavnsgade.

10 At the far side of the road take the descending path that leads to a subway beneath the railway. The far side of the tunnel emerges at the junction of Østbanegade and Nordre Frihavnsgade (GPS 55.70371 12.59096),

Rosenvænget:

The view ahead, down Nordre Frihavnsgade signifies that you are emphatically back in Østerbro. Walk along Nordre Frihavnsgade to the next junction where you meet Strandboulevarden again (GPS 55.70343 12.58793), Use the pedestrian crossing to reach the far side of Strandboulevarden, turn left and walk south for 150m, crossing one road and passing a large, imposing building that is part of the Strandboulevarden school. The sign above the main entrance indicates that this was once "Finsens Medicinske Lysinstitut" which was originally set up in the beginning of the 20th century to treat medical conditions with radiation (Lys). That function was moved to the Rigs hospital in the 1980's.

At the next junction (GPS 55.70204 12.58833), turn right onto Rosenvængets Hovedvej.

11 Rosenvænget is a neighbourhood of detached villas established from 1860 onwards. The Strandboulevarden school opens up on the right with play and sport areas. Continue straight down Rosenvængets Hovedvej for 400m to where the villa quater ends and the typically dense Østerbro apartment blocks reappear. Turn right onto Petersborgvej (GPS 55.70052 12.58225).

At the end of Petersborgvej you meet Nordre Frihavnsgade again. Cross Nordre Frihavnsgade (there is a pedestrian crossing to the right) and at the far side of the small tree-filled pedestian area a road curves round between two streets, J.E.Ohlsens Gade and Ribegade (GPS 55.70167 12.58040). Take the left-hand road, J.E.Ohlsens Gade.

Brumleby:

J.E.Ohlsens Gade leads quickly to Østerbrogade (GPS 55.70157 12.57745). Hiding behind the yellow brick building on the other side of the road is the pretty housing development of Brumleby, built after a cholera epidemic broke out in the overcrowded city in 1853.

12 There is a pedestrian crossing 100m north from here (to the right, just before Gustav Adolfs Gade). Cross Østerbrogade and continue a further 20m north to where a small wooden gate leads into the Brumleby estate (GPS 55.70262 12.57739).

Brumleby is part of a housing association, and is incredibly popular. There is a 20 year waiting list for properties, but you can sign onto the waiting list as a 15 year old so you might get lucky and move in as a thirty-something. All the houses have the same two-tone appearance and even the doors are the same shade of green. Not all the houses are the same size, there are notable differences if you search them out.

There are footpaths to the front and the back of all the terraces. The estate does not allow cars to be parked which creates a very peaceful atmosphere. If you wish to explore the estate at your leisure we will agree to meet up in the south-west corner where there is an exit onto Øster Allé. If you are coming with me then turn to the right and take the first left at the corner of block R (GPS 55.70270 12.57701). Take the path alongside the houses until you reach block N by a swing. The entrance to Brumleby Museum is up the steps in the gable wall. A little farther on is the "Crooked House" playground with its fun, contorted versions of the Brumleby house.

At the far end of this row of houses (GPS 55.70107 12.57362), turn left and walk past the ends of the rows to block A. To the right is a gate leading out of the estate onto Øster Allé (GPS 55.70050 12.57430). Cross Øster Allé at your convenience, turn left and pass the Royal Post and Telegraf building.

You soon reach the starting point of the tour at Trianglen Metro Station (GPS 55.69916 12.57613).

Notes on the harbour forts:

Trekroner Fort in the harbour close to Nordhavn is one of three artificial islands built to defend Copenhagen harbour. Beyond Trekroner Fort are Middelgrundsfortet and Flakfortet. All three forts are open to visitors if you can find a boat to take you there. Trekroner Fort was originally built (in 1713) a few hundred meters north of the current one. Three ships, including the ship of the line Trekroner, were sunk to form the foundations for the battery. Trekroner Fort saw action in the two Battles of Copenhagen in 1801 and 1807. The first battle is reknowned for Nelson ignoring a signal to retreat by putting a telescope to his blind eye and proclaiming "I really do not see the signal!"